Expectations for New Roses

Growing roses, especially for the first time, can be troubling if you aren't sure what is and isn't normal: Is there something about your rose that's troubling you? Whether it's lack of growth, blooms, potential dieback, yellowing leaves, or otherwise? Read more to see whether or not your roses are on the right track.

How quickly should I expect my rose to grow & bloom after planting?

This depends on the rose variety and climate.

Some varieties take longer to establish than others. Let's say you ordered two roses and one is growing quickly, while the other looks relatively healthy but is remaining stagnant. This doesn't always mean that the stagnant one isn't doing well. It could simply be focusing its development on its roots after having been transplanted, and will later put on visible growth.

• Modern roses like Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, Grandifloras, Polyanthas, etc., are often faster to put on growth and blooms.
• Old Garden Roses (True Antiques) like Bourbons, Hybrid Perpetuals, Damasks, Teas, Species, etc. can take longer to fill out, and some of them can take a few years to reach their blooming potential (and may not bloom at all within the first year or two).
  • Keep in mind that many True Antiques do not like harsh pruning. Since we have to prune roses before fitting them into boxes, the recovery period for True Antiques takes longer.
• Climbers of any variety can take longer to grow and bloom. The old garden saying is "First year they sleep, second year they creep, third year they leap." Even this can be overestimating the speed at which some climbers can grow, as we've seen some varieties take up to 6 years before they put on their first blooms.
• Once-Blooming roses, whether climbers or True Antiques, may not bloom at all the first year you plant them. It may take at least a couple of spring seasons to get your first flower flush.

What to keep in mind:

• The wait for blooms should not deter you from a rose. We find that sometimes the roses that take the most patience to bloom are the ones most well worth the wait.
• All roses are different. Even if you have two roses from the same class, for example, both are Hybrid Teas, they will not always grow at the same rate.
• Roses are slower to grow and bloom during extreme heat. See here on What to Expect from Roses in the Heat. 
• Ensure your rose is in at least 6+ hours of direct sunlight to maximize its blooming potential.

What should/shouldn't I be concerned about on my new roses?

Here's a little list of common concerns we hear about: when there's no need to be concerned vs when it's time to take action. Hope this helps!

READ BEFORE CONTINUING: It's important to note that roses are a part of nature, just like all other plants. Since roses are so beloved by gardeners, it can be difficult for gardeners not to read too deeply into aesthetic flaws and be concerned about their roses' health. In reality, roses are quite tough, and if you look up into a tree, you will not see perfection on every leaf. The same goes for our roses- expecting perfection will only end in disappointment. It's good to keep an eye on roses to stop issues from becoming even larger, but it's best to remember to have patience and understanding for our flowering friends.

• Blackspot.
  • Don't be concerned: If you receive your roses with some blackspot, as this is a common occurrence in the humid conditions of transit. Blackspot can also happen if you have periods of high humidity or increased rainfall. Simply pull off affected leaves.
  • Time to take action: Even though it is abnormal for blackspot to kill a rose, excessive blackspot can weaken your rose's immune system, making it more susceptible to other pests and diseases. Pull affected leaves, spray with neem oil, remove debris around the rose, and keep an eye out for a continuation.  Repeat the process until your rose recovers easily and has healthy growth. Ensure that your rose is receiving adequate airflow. 
• Dieback.
  • Don't be concerned: If some of your canes are turning black or brown at the tips where they've been cut, sanitize your pruners and cut them further (an inch into healthy growth). This should stop the process and encourage new growth.
  • Time to take action: Reach out if there is dieback happening at the base of the rose, where you see the crown turning black. This rose likely will not make it. Additionally, if dieback continues to occur at the tips even after pruning.
    
• Brown canes.
  • Don't be concerned: If you receive a rose with brown canes, it is likely just canes that have turned woody rather than dead plant material. You can do a gentle scratch test to see- if it is succulent and white underneath, your rose is healthy and alive. Some can also mistake roses in the process of turning woody for canker or scale (as it can sometimes look scaly depending on the variety).
    • Some specific varieties such as Mermaid, Basye's Purple, Chestnut, and Therese Bugnet have canes that are naturally so dark that they look dead or close to black. These roses are likely just fine, and the scratch test can be done if you are concerned.

Example of rose turning woody.

• • Time to take action: If a scratch test comes out dry, brown, and brittle, you may have dead canes on your rose. Reach out if this is the case. Additionally, canes turning black at the bottom or middle of the plant is a sign of dieback at the base.
• Yellowing leaves.
  • Don't be concerned: If a few leaves are yellowing at the base of the plant, or just a few randomly scattered throughout the plant. It is likely not cause for concern, as many minor environmental stresses can naturally cause this without meaning that your rose has any true underlying health issues.
  • Time to take action: If over a third or half of the leaves on your plant are yellowing, this could be a sign of watering issues, nutritional problems, transplant shock, weather stress, or pests. Reach out to gardenquestions@weareroses.com with multiple pictures (up close and afar) to help diagnose the issue and turn around your plant's health.
    
• Twisted/stunted foliage growth/balling & browning on blooms.
  • Don't be concerned: If it is minor damage, it is likely due to humidity or thrips. See our blog here on how to identify thrips. If it is severely affecting your roses, it's possible it is still thrips, which can be treated but not completely resolved. The good news is that thrips are not detrimental to your rose's long-term health. Balling due to humidity can only be waited out, but it may be a good idea to remove all affected blooms.
  • Time to take action: If your rose is severely affected, it could be due to other issues like botrytis. Additionally, if there is other weird growth that creates a witchbroom effect, it could be a more serious issue such as Rose Rosette. Reach out if you are concerned.
    
• Red growth.
  • Don't be concerned: If your rose is overall looking healthy and the new growth is normally shaped. Many roses, especially moderns, can put on new growth anywhere between bright red and deep purple, which will eventually turn to green as it matures. In fact, this is often very pretty growth.
  • Time to take action: If your rose's new growth is excessively and abnormally thorny, or if it is starting to have a witchbroom effect. Reach out if this is the case.

Example of normal red growth on Star of the Republic.

• Stagnant growth/lack of blooms.
  • Don't be concerned: If your rose is overall looking healthy and you've only had it planted for a few months (if it's a modern rose) or a couple of years (if it's a climber or True Antique). See more on this in the first part of this article.
  • Time to take action: If your rose is in part shade (not in 6 hours of direct sun), it may need to be moved. If your rose is looking sickly, reach out to gardenquestions@weareroses.com with multiple photos and an explanation of your observations. 
    
• Blooms don't look as expected/are not fragrant.
  • Don't be concerned: If it is your rose's first blooms or if it is hot, roses can look wildly different from expected. They can have fewer petals, be small in size, lack fragrance, and even be drastically faded in color (e.g., a yellow rose blooming white, an orange rose blooming yellow, or a red rose blooming pink). This will improve with optimal seasonal conditions and maturity.
    • Common concern: Peggy Martin blooming white. Most expect the beautiful pink blooms and are concerned when they see their Peggy bloom white for the first time. This is extremely common for this rose, and the roses will be pink with maturity. (If your Peggy Martin is still blooming completely white even a year after having it, this is exciting news to us! Let us know because you might have a white sport...)
    • Keep in mind that, while fragrance often comes with maturity, fragrance is also dependent on the nose of the beholder. While specific rose varieties can be considered generally very fragrant, this is not a guarantee for everyone.
  • Time to take action: If your rose is a completely different color than expected and the flower form is wildly different, it's possible you received a mislabeled rose. Reach out to our team to help determine.
    

Conclusion

We hope that with this guide, you will feel more comfortable about your new rose's progress within your garden.

If you have any other questions regarding more details on rose information, please see our other blogs or reach out to us at gardenquestions@weareroses.com.